CLAYTON, Ga. — A standing-room-only crowd filled the Clayton City Council chambers Monday night as residents rallied in support of Highroads Tasting Room, which warns it could be forced to shut down unless the city reconsiders an ordinance limiting tasting rooms to serving only Georgia wines by the glass.
The ordinance, revised in 2019, has drawn confusion and criticism for how it’s being applied to Highroads.
“We are reviewing the ordinance. We are not making the decision to alter it today,” Councilwoman Sarah Gillespie told the crowd. “That does not mean the ordinance won’t be altered. There is, obviously, some confusing language in the way it was written. That’s why you elected us—to do our jobs and make it clearer. We’ve been working on that for weeks now, so please, bear with us,” she implored. “Please.”
Gillespie voiced support for the business community and said council members are working toward a solution.
Council punts without attorney
Despite reassurances, tensions rose when council members refused to discuss ordinance details due to the absence of City Attorney Mitchell L. Baker, Jr.
“The biggest thing is that if we have a difference on our interpretation of our ordinances, it’s not ours to discuss outside of counsel. We need him here to lead us in that,” explained Mayor Pro Tem Stacey Fountain.
Highroads owner Jabe Hilson pressed him: “Where is he?”
“He’s on his way back from Atlanta,” Fountain replied.
Hilson responded, “That doesn’t help everybody here today, does it? It’ll be another month before we have the opportunity to do that [speak about the ordinance]?”
Fountain ended the exchange: “Jabe, I appreciate you.”
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Comment rules spark frustration
Audience members grew confused and frustrated over unclear public comment procedures. Only those who signed up in advance were allowed five minutes to speak; others were limited to one minute. Around 45 minutes into the meeting, the council moved to adjourn early, though many still wished to speak.
Before adjourning, City Manager Trudy Crunkelton addressed the crowd.
“The attorney has advised us that if y’all are going to say why you are here and what your thoughts are—and I believe we all know what they are—that’s fine. But when it comes to ‘We disagree. Our interpretation…we don’t think we are interpreting it correctly,’… that becomes a legal matter,” she said.
Directing her remarks to one person in the crowd, she added, “And, back there shaking your head, I’m telling you, our attorney says that…[That] is why we are not saying more.” Then, clapping her hands for emphasis, she continued, “Because multiple of you stood up and said, ‘You’re interpreting it wrong. You’re interpreting it wrong.’”
City manager, Hilson spar
Crunkelton then addressed Hilson directly, referencing a private meeting.
“Jabe, you and I sat in my office and we agreed how we interpreted it [the ordinance] sitting in my office,” she said.
Hilson interrupted, disagreeing with her characterization: “Actually, I decided it was not prudent to argue.”
The crowd applauded. Crunkelton responded sharply.
“Y’all can all applaud for him, and I want to say, I have been blamed and I have been called out on this, but that is not the conversation you and I had sitting in that room. There was no argument, but you never said, ‘I disagree with your interpretation.’ And so that everybody in this room knows, that was not my interpretation. I went to our attorney before I ever sent anything [an email informing Hilson his business was not in compliance] and said [to the attorney], ‘Am I interpreting this correctly?’”
Work session ends early
When asked if the attorney would be available later, council members confirmed he would attend the 5 p.m. council meeting. They ended the work session early and recessed for 15 minutes.
Frustrated audience members used the break to speak directly with council members and among themselves about what they saw as “openly hostile” attitudes from some city leaders.
Equity and clarity
When the meeting resumed, Hilson again took to the podium to voice his concerns. He pointed out discrepancies in local alcohol ordinances
“You don’t even have an ordinance for wineries. It’s only tasting rooms. Y’all don’t have an ordinance for distillery tasting rooms; you only have an ordinance for distilleries. Yet, you have a distillery tasting room operating within the city limits,” he said.
The Highroads owner called on the city to apply the same standards to wineries that it uses for breweries and distilleries, noting that those businesses follow Georgia state codes for their operations.
Hilson described how the issue had affected his business and urged the council to consider granting a temporary variance. He asked that the variance allow Highroads to continue operating as it has until a formal ruling could be made.
Attorney Baker, now present, responded that no citations had been issued and the city had not threatened to pull the business’s license
He added, “And you don’t have to respond to this, but it is my understanding that there were activities going on at this location that were blatantly violations of our alcohol ordinances, not related to the serving of non-Georgia wines. Other issues. Which precipitated the communication [Crunkelton’s email].”
When several audience members asked for specifics, Councilwoman Amanda Harrold said, “This is a communication with us. Thank you.”
Baker said to Hilson, “You can respond to that if you want to. Or if you don’t want to. I’m not necessarily saying we need to engage in that. But just for everybody’s knowledge, the communication was precipitated by activities that have nothing to do with why we are here today. It led to this discussion and expression of what the city’s interpretation of the ordinance was, which led to Jabe, you coming and saying, ‘If that is going to be the interpretation, then I would like you to consider changing the ordinance.’”
Attorney hints at violations
Although Baker admitted the alleged violations were unrelated to the ordinance, he made it clear that they influenced the city’s response. He also made clear that a variance was unlikely.
“I am in favor of clear ordinances that reflect the mores and beliefs of the citizens of Clayton…” he said, adding he believed the council supported that view.
Councilwoman Gillespie reiterated her desire to work with Hilson on a solution.
Protest moves outside
During public comments, several attendees praised Highroads as a key part of Clayton’s community and culture. One man grew visibly emotional as he recalled visiting the establishment with his late father. Another described the business as a “secret chamber of commerce” that helps artists and entrepreneurs thrive.
The Mayor Pro Tem offered an opportunity for individuals to speak in opposition. No one did.
In one of the night’s most dramatic moments, retired attorney Kimberly Lacey sought to present a constitutional law perspective on the ordinance. Fountain denied her request to speak. When she protested, he asked security to intervene. As Clayton Police Chief Andy Strait moved to remove her, Lacey announced she would speak on the courthouse lawn. Many in the audience followed her outside.
Gillespie offers apology and assurance
After the meeting, supporters gathered at Highroads to unwind. Gillespie joined them, reaffirming her support for a positive resolution.
When someone mentioned the “rudeness” they felt during the meeting, Gillespie responded with an apology on behalf of those responsible.
Her visit offered a measure of relief to supporters, who ended the night cautiously optimistic that the local business could be preserved and civic harmony restored.
